The Perfumers’ Guide to the World’s Most Famous Roses
Roses are perfumery’s north star. Two species—Rosa × damascena (Damask rose) and Rosa × centifolia (May/Provence rose)—supply nearly all natural “rose” materials used by perfumers. This guide covers the key roses, how they’re grown and processed, what they smell like, how to use them in formulas, and how to buy and store them well.
1) The Big Two: Species, Materials & How They Smell
Rosa × damascena (Damask rose)
Primary materials:
Rose otto (steam-distilled essential oil)
Rose absolute (solvent-extracted from concrete)
CO₂ extract (supercritical CO₂)
Rose water (hydrosol; distillation by-product)
Typical olfactive profile: luminous, lemony-green opening; rich rosy heart with citronellol/geraniol/nerol; honeyed, slightly spicy drydown. Trace molecules like β-damascenone give the magic “rose radiance.”
Material differences:
Otto: airy, dewy, citrus-green; extremely diffusive; tiny traces of phenethyl alcohol (most goes into the water phase).
Absolute: fuller, jammy-honeyed, slightly tobacco-hay facets; more phenethyl alcohol and waxy body.
CO₂: sits between otto and absolute; very true-to-flower with soft waxes intact.
Yields (rule-of-thumb):
Otto: ~0.02–0.04% (≈ 3–5 tons petals per kilo oil).
Absolute: ~0.12–0.24% (≈ 400–800 kg petals per kilo absolute).
Rosa × centifolia (May/Provence rose)
Primary materials:
Rose absolute (Grasse is the historic source)
Concrete (sometimes used as-is in solid bases)
Olfactive profile: softer and waxier than damascena; petal-jam, honeycomb, tea, and a faint pepper-clove nuance. Gorgeous in cosmetics because of its creamy texture.
2) Famous Rose Regions & What Makes Each Special
Bulgaria (Kazanlak “Valley of Roses”) – R. damascena ‘Trigintipetala’
Sparkling, lemony-green top, textbook rosy heart; benchmark rose otto quality. Best for classical florals, chypres, and fine soap accords.Türkiye (Isparta) – R. damascena
Fresh-dewy rose with gentle spice; superb otto and absolute. Works well in bright modern florals, tea-rose effects, and extraits needing lift.Morocco (Kelaat M’Gouna) – R. damascena
Slightly spicier and fruitier with a deeper honey note. Perfect for oriental/ambery structures and rose-saffron-oud styles.Iran (Kashan/Qamsar) – R. damascena
Very honeyed, round, with warm balsamic facets. Ideal for attars, incense-rose themes, and meditative compositions.Saudi Arabia (Ta’if) – R. damascena ‘Trigintipetala’
Crisp, citrusy-green, exceptionally bright; prized Ta’if attar. Suited to soliflores and sparkling top notes over musks/ambers.France (Grasse) – R. centifolia (May rose)
Waxy-honeyed, petal jam, tea nuance; historically harvested in May. Great for haute couture florals, cosmetic elegance, and powdery aldehydics.Egypt (Faiyum, Beni Suef) – R. damascena
Sunny, slightly fruity-leafy tone; good value absolutes. Useful for everyday fine fragrance and body care.India (Uttar Pradesh/Rajasthan; Kannauj distillers) – R. damascena
Lush, slightly jammy; famed Ruh Gulab (rose otto) and rose-based attars. Best in attar traditions (rose-sandal) and gourmand-rose ideas.China (Gansu/Yunnan; also R. rugosa in the northeast)
Variable profiles; damascena for absolutes/ottos, rugosa adds berry-jam facets. Suits modern rose tea and fruity-floral twists.
3) Harvest & Processing Essentials (Why Quality Varies So Much)
Dawn picking: Petals are hand-harvested at first light while cool and turgid.
Fast to still: Distillation ideally starts within the same morning.
Distillation style: Copper alembics, two-step hydrodistillation for otto; solvent extraction for absolute; CO₂ for freshness.
By-products: Rose water rich in phenethyl alcohol.
Chemistry highlights: citronellol, geraniol, nerol, β-damascenone, trace rose oxide.
4) Choosing the Right Rose Material for the Job
For a bright, diffusive rose that “blooms” in the top: Choose Bulgarian or Turkish rose otto for their citrus-green lift and radiant profile.
For a plush, velvety heart with honeyed depth: Opt for Moroccan or Iranian rose absolute with their jammy, spicy-balsamic tones.
For creamy, cosmetic elegance: Use Grasse (centifolia) absolute for its waxy, tea-rose sophistication.
For a natural, true-to-flower impression with soft body: Select Damascena CO₂ extract for its balanced realism.
For traditional attar styles: Go with Indian or Ta’if rose otto, which pairs beautifully with sandalwood and oud.
5) How Perfumers Use Rose (Pairings & Families)
Soliflore roses: otto + absolute + a touch of ionones and damascones.
Chypres: rose absolute with bergamot, patchouli, oakmoss (or replacers), labdanum.
Amber/Oriental: rose + vanilla, saffron, oud, incense.
Aldehydic florals: centifolia absolute + C10–C12 aldehydes.
Tea-rose effects: otto with dihydromyrcenol, linalool, rose oxide.
Gourmand-rose: Moroccan/Iranian absolute + vanillin, tonka, raspberry ketone.
6) Starter Accords (Practice-Ready)
(Formulas unchanged from previous version — kept for completeness.)
7) Buying Guide: Quality, Authenticity & Ethics
Ask for GC/MS, harvest year, origin, IFRA compliance.
Smell for balance and evolution.
Beware of adulteration: overly cheap, thin scent, or abnormal chemistry ratios.
Seek sustainable, fair-trade sources.
Buy enough of one batch for consistency.
8) Storage & Handling
Cool, dark, airtight; glass bottles only.
Warm gently if otto crystallizes.
Make 10% and 1% dilutions for accuracy.
Minimize oxidation.
9) Fast FAQ
Otto vs Absolute: otto = brightness; absolute = richness. Often both are used.
Centifolia weaker? No—just softer and waxier.
Synthetic-only rose possible? Yes, but naturals give depth.
Lemony top in otto? Normal—terpenes like citronellol and nerol.
10) Quick Reference: Pairing Map
Brighteners: bergamot, grapefruit, aldehydes, hedione, linalool
Deepeners: patchouli heart, labdanum, ambergris notes, musks
Spicers: saffron, pink pepper, cardamom, clove (trace)
Fruity lifts: blackcurrant bud, lychee nuance, raspberry ketone
Woods: sandalwood, cedar, guaiac
Florals to braid: violet ionones, jasmine sambac, osmanthus, orris
